Breitling - Cosmonaute Chronograph - Sans prix de réserve - 81600 F / A12019 - Homme - 1980-1989

Offered in this auction by Second Vintage The Breitling Cosmonaute stands as one of the most historically significant chronographs of the mid-twentieth century, born directly from the specific operational needs of space exploration. Originally developed in the early 1960s after astronaut Scott Carpenter requested a Navitimer with a 24-hour dial to distinguish day from night in orbit, the Cosmonaute became an instant icon of aerospace engineering. This particular example perfectly captures the utilitarian beauty and complex mechanical charm that collectors revere, presenting the legendary 24-hour layout and slide-rule bezel in a highly preserved, highly attractive vintage package. Brand: Breitling Model: Cosmonaute Reference Number: 81600 F / A12019 Serial Number: 6177 Movement: Manual winding 17-jewel chronograph Dial: Black 24-hour dial with silver sub-dials, featuring creamy pumpkin lume and a remarkably clean surface Case Size: 41 mm (excluding the crown) Case Material: Stainless Steel Production Year: 1980s Condition: Excellent vintage condition with outstanding dial preservation and honest case wear Dial and Hands The dial of this Cosmonaute is a masterclass in complex yet legible instrumentation, presented in an exceptional state of preservation. The matte black primary surface is remarkably clean, showing no visible spotting, moisture marks, or discoloration. It features the signature 24-hour Arabic numeral layout, entirely printed with luminous material that has aged to a highly desirable, uniform creamy pumpkin hue. The crisp, white serif and sans-serif typography, including the classic Breitling twin-jet logo, remains perfectly intact with no print loss. Three recessed silver sub-dials at the three, six, and nine o'clock positions display concentric snailing, offering a striking reverse-panda contrast against the dark dial. The white syringe-style hour and minute hands are filled with luminous material that perfectly matches the patina of the dial numerals, while the stark white chronograph sweep hand provides excellent legibility. The intricate slide-rule inner rehaut is sharp, bright, and free of fading, completing a truly stunning vintage dial. Case and Crystal The 41mm stainless steel case retains a strong, architectural presence on the wrist. A close inspection reveals well-defined lug profiles with factory chamfers and a clear transition between the brushed upper surfaces and the highly polished case flanks. The case exhibits honest signs of vintage wear, including light surface scratches and minor handling marks on the polished sides, but remains free of deep gouges or signs of aggressive over-polishing. The signature fluted bidirectional slide-rule bezel rotates precisely and features sharp, distinct ridges. The domed crystal is clean and clear, offering an unobstructed view of the complex dial beneath. The watch is fitted with a signed, domed winding crown and classic pump pushers. Turning the watch over, the snap-on caseback is deeply and crisply engraved with the Breitling wings logo, reference numbers, and the intricate Celsius to Fahrenheit temperature conversion scale, further emphasizing its tool-watch heritage. Movement Powering this chronograph is a beautifully preserved, Lemania-based manual winding movement, visible in the provided images with its caseback removed. The movement features 17 jewels and a robust cam-actuated chronograph mechanism, a hallmark of high-grade Swiss timekeeping from this era. The bridges display crisp brushing and are proudly stamped with the Breitling name, caliber details, and the serial number 4406973. The screw heads, gears, and levers present cleanly, indicating a well-maintained operational life. Exhibiting remarkable accuracy and consistency, performing brilliantly for a vintage timepiece. (+6 to +8 s/d). Strap The watch is fitted with a period-correct, high-quality brown leather strap featuring contrasting white stitching that pairs beautifully with the warm patina of the dial. The strap is branded by Breitling on the reverse and is completed by a stainless steel tang buckle bearing the raised Breitling winged 'B' logo. The leather shows mild, honest wear consistent with careful use but remains supple and ready for the wrist. Condition This timepiece is graded in excellent vintage condition. The dial is the undisputed highlight, remaining near-flawless with a highly attractive, even patina across all luminous elements. The case shows normal, age-consistent wear with light surface scratches on the polished flanks, while retaining excellent structural integrity and sharp engravings on the caseback. The movement is visually clean and running exceptionally well. Dimensions The case measures 41 mm in diameter, excluding the crown and pushers. Remarks Finding a Breitling Cosmonaute with such an immaculate dial and perfectly aged luminous material is a rare occurrence. This piece seamlessly blends rich aerospace history with undeniable aesthetic appeal, making it a highly compelling acquisition for both dedicated chronograph collectors and enthusiasts of space-faring timepieces. History The Breitling Cosmonaute secured its place in horological history on May 24, 1962, when astronaut Scott Carpenter wore the first iteration aboard the Aurora 7 spacecraft. Carpenter had specifically requested that Breitling modify their famous Navitimer to feature a 24-hour dial, as the standard 12-hour layout was impractical for tracking time in the darkness of space. Breitling delivered, and the Cosmonaute became the first Swiss wrist chronograph to travel in space. Over the decades, the model has remained a cornerstone of Breitling's catalog, celebrated for its uncompromising dedication to functional aviation and aerospace design. / Second Vintage SKU: BRE-CAF-0001