Vintage Longines Conquest: calibers, cases and the examples worth buying
The vintage Longines Conquest to buy is a steel 1970s automatic with a clean original dial, sharp case geometry and a movement whose condition is documented.
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The vintage Longines Conquest spans a broader design range than its name suggests. Examples handled from 1960 to 1977 move from restrained round cases to cushion and tonneau forms, with steel and gold-plated cases both present. The clearest buying distinction is not early against late, but clean steel automatic against compromised dial or worn plating.
A used Longines Conquest from the 1970s can carry the automatic L633.1 or L633.5, while the gold-plated 1011 1 uses the manual-wind caliber 428. Sizes run from 34 mm to 36 mm in the examples examined, so shape matters as much as diameter. The tonneau 1572 1 looks broader than its measurement, while the cushion-cased 1011 1 puts more gold tone around the dial.
Known production years
1960-1977
Handled case sizes
34 mm, 35 mm and 36 mm, excluding the crown
Movement types
Automatic and manual-wind
Known calibers
L633.1, L633.5 and 428
| Known case materials | Stainless steel and gold-plated with stainless steel caseback |
| Known case forms | Round, cushion and tonneau |
| Reference 7290 detail | Date at 12 o'clock and gold and blue enamel observatory medallion |
What it was built for
The Conquest combined everyday durability with a dress-watch face, and the 1970s references make that split visible. The 1573 1 633 uses a tonneau-shaped steel case, a silver sunburst dial and high-contrast black baton indices. The 7290 takes a more formal route with applied gold-tone markers, a silver dial and its date at 12 o'clock. Neither is a modern sports watch in scale, but both carry more case architecture than a conventional round dress model.
Movement choice changes the ownership ritual. The automatic L633.1 sits in the 1572 1, 1573 1 633 and 1570-1-7951, while the 7290 uses the L633.5. The 1011 1 is the outlier, pairing a manual-wind caliber 428 with a gold-plated cushion case. Buy that version for its winding routine and case shape, not as a substitute for the steel automatics.
Where the value sits
The dial determines the largest spread. A clean silver sunburst surface with crisp printing carries a premium over localized perimeter staining, oxidized hands or a heavily changed blue dial. The brown stardust surface on the 1572 1 is genuine heavy ageing, but without evidence that it began as a black dial it should not be called tropical. A refinished dial costs more than every minor case mark combined.
Steel also makes the safer long-term case choice. Gold plating on the 1011 1 and 1570-1-7951 can wear through around exposed edges, and no ordinary service restores the lost factory surface. On steel tonneau cases, sharp geometry matters because polishing softens the transitions that give these references their shape. The 7290 adds another value point: its gold and blue enamel observatory medallion should remain intact rather than chipped or heavily abraded.
Where to start
Start with the steel 1573 1 633 when the dial is clean, the black baton indices remain consistent and the tonneau case retains sharp transitions. It gives you the automatic L633.1, strong contrast and a case that expresses the decade without relying on fragile plating. Against a gold-plated example with a brighter dial but exposed base metal at the lugs, take the honest steel watch.
The 7290 is the more specific choice. Its date at 12 o'clock and enamel caseback medallion give it details absent from the other Conquest examples, but both need close assessment. The 1011 1 suits a collector who specifically wants manual winding and a cushion case. For any used Longines Conquest, the service history may be unknown, and without invoices it should remain unknown rather than be inferred from timekeeping alone.
What to check before you buy
- 1573 1 633 dial and case: The 1573 1 633 should combine a silver sunburst dial, applied black baton indices and a tonneau-shaped stainless steel case. Soft outer transitions indicate polishing, while inconsistent dial furniture raises a parts-mixing concern.
- 7290 date and caseback: The 7290 should have its date aperture at 12 o'clock and a gold and blue enamel Longines observatory medallion on the back. A conventional date position or plain replacement back does not match the handled configuration.
- 1011 1 movement and case: The 1011 1 should pair the manual-wind caliber 428 with a 36 mm gold-plated cushion case and stainless steel back. An automatic movement would conflict with this known configuration and could indicate a franken or married watch.
- 1570-1-7951 surface details: The 1570-1-7951 should combine caliber L633.1 with a vertically brushed silver dial, applied indices and a gold-plated case with steel back. Oxidized hands and perimeter staining are condition faults, not proof of originality.
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