Presented for auction by Second Vintage
A captivating example of mid-century Swiss elegance, this Universal Genève dress watch stands out with its mesmerizing textured dial and refined proportions. Universal Genève is celebrated by collectors for its exceptional design language, and this timepiece perfectly encapsulates that ethos, offering a sophisticated aesthetic that remains incredibly relevant today. The striking interplay between the warm gold-tone case and the rich, patterned dial makes this a truly exceptional find for the discerning enthusiast.
Brand: Universal Genève
Reference Number: 542136
Serial Number: 3260893
Movement: Manual wind, Caliber 1-42, 17 jewels
Dial: Brown linen-textured dial with applied indices, in stunning, well-preserved condition
Case Size: 32 mm (excluding the crown)
Case Material: Gold-plated with stainless steel caseback
Production Year: 1970s
Condition: Excellent vintage condition with a beautifully preserved dial. The movement has been serviced on 6/20/2026 and performs very strongly.
Dial and Hands
The absolute highlight of this timepiece is its spectacular bronze-brown dial, which features a deep, intricate linen or crosshatch texture that catches the light beautifully from every angle. The dial is exceptionally clean and remarkably well-preserved, showing no visible spots, moisture damage, or discoloration, maintaining a fresh and vibrant appearance. It is adorned with applied baton indices that feature bright white painted tops, perfectly matching the crisp, white baton hands. The striking white typography of the applied Universal Genève U logo and text provides a sharp, highly legible contrast against the dark textured background. The dial is signed Swiss at the bottom edge, completing this flawless and elegant display.
Case and Crystal
The 32 millimeter gold-plated case presents a classic, understated profile with smooth, sweeping lines and straight, slightly tapered lugs. The case remains in good vintage condition, exhibiting honest signs of wear, including light surface scratches and minor edge wear to the gold plating consistent with careful historical use. The smooth bezel transitions cleanly into the domed acrylic crystal, which is clear and free of any major distracting marks or heavy scratches, offering an unobstructed view of the stunning dial. The original crown, proudly signed with the Universal Genève U logo, shows expected wear to its knurled edges but remains fully functional. The stainless steel snap-on caseback is sharply engraved with the reference number 542136 and serial number 3260893, remaining highly legible.
Movement
Inside beats the Universal Genève Caliber 1-42, a meticulously finished 17-jewel manual wind movement. The brushed bridges and polished components present beautifully, with the Universal Genève signature, Swiss hallmark, and caliber designation clearly stamped and easily readable. Exhibiting remarkable accuracy and consistency, performing brilliantly for a vintage timepiece. The timegrapher results indicate a deviation of -1 to 5 seconds per day with strong amplitude, confirming the excellent mechanical health of this classic caliber. The movement has been serviced on 6/20/2026 and performs very strongly.
Strap
The watch is fitted with a period correct dark brown leather strap featuring a crocodile-grain texture and contrasting white stitching. It is secured with a classic gold-tone pin buckle that complements the tones of the case perfectly.
Condition
This Universal Genève is in excellent vintage condition overall. The dial is the clear standout, remaining near-mint with its pristine texture and sharp white accents. The gold-plated case shows normal, honest wear and light handling marks expected from a watch of its era, with some minor fading on the crown. The stainless steel caseback is well-preserved, and the manual wind movement is exceptionally clean and running with outstanding precision.
Dimensions
The case measures 32 millimeters in diameter, excluding the signed crown. The elegant proportions make it an ideal mid-century dress watch, sitting flat and comfortably on the wrist.
Remarks
Textured dials from this era are highly sought after, and finding one with such a deep, rich color and immaculate preservation is a rare opportunity. The combination of the warm gold-tone case, the intricate brown linen dial, and the stark white hands creates a highly compelling visual dynamic that will elevate any vintage collection.
History
Universal Genève holds a prestigious place in the pantheon of great Swiss watchmakers, renowned for their technical innovations and masterful designs throughout the mid-twentieth century. While famous for their complex chronographs and the iconic Polerouter, the brand also produced exceptionally elegant, time-only dress watches that showcased their dedication to refined aesthetics and reliable mechanical movements. This particular example serves as a testament to their enduring legacy of timeless, sophisticated watchmaking.
/ Second Vintage
SKU: UNI-GXX-0002















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Universal Genève Caliber 1-42 542136 (1970-1979)
Universal Genève
Sold for
€322
≈ $360
Sold on Jul 1, 2026
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