Orient - Fineness Ultramatic - No reserve price - 509949 - Men - 1960-1969

Presented for auction by Second Vintage This is a fascinating example of high-end Japanese horology from the late 1960s, representing Orient's pursuit of slim, high-jewel count automatic watches. The Fineness Ultramatic was a premium offering, designed to compete with the top-tier models from domestic rivals, and this specific example features the desirable Kanji day wheel, confirming its origins as a Japanese Domestic Market piece. Brand: Orient Model: Fineness Ultramatic Reference Number: 509949 Serial Number: 017405 Movement: Caliber 3900 Automatic Dial: Silver sunburst with day-date complication Case Size: 33 mm (excluding the crown) Case Material: Stainless Steel Production Year: c. 1960s Condition: Fair vintage condition. The watch shows clear signs of history and wear, particularly to the bezel, while the dial remains attractive and legible. Dial and Hands The silver sunburst dial has aged gracefully, retaining a bright sheen with a light, consistent patina that adds vintage character. It features applied silver baton indices and matching hands with black inserts for legibility. A day and date window is positioned at 3 o'clock, displaying the day in Kanji characters, a highly sought-after feature for collectors of Japanese vintage watches. The text "Ultramatic" and "35J Incabloc" is crisp, proudly displaying the high specifications of the movement. Case and Crystal The stainless steel case features a distinctive cushion shape that sits comfortably on the wrist. The case exhibits visible wear throughout, consistent with its age and honest usage. The bezel ring shows significant patina and plating loss, giving the watch a rugged, authentic appearance. The original crown, signed with the Orient logo, is present. The caseback features the detailed "F" Fineness logo and technical engravings, which remain legible. The crystal shows aging and crazing, particularly near the edges. Movement Powering this timepiece is the Orient Caliber 3900 automatic movement, an impressive mechanism featuring 35 jewels. This high jewel count was a hallmark of the Fineness line, designed to reduce friction and allow for a thinner mainspring barrel. Timegrapher testing indicates a rate of approximately -77 to -80 seconds per day. The movement is running and complete, but could benefit from adjustment. Strap The watch is fitted with a brown leather strap featuring a crocodile grain pattern and contrasting stitching. The strap is in good condition, soft and pliable, and the rich brown tone complements the vintage aesthetic of the silver dial and steel case. Condition This timepiece is assessed as being in fair vintage condition. It is a genuine survivor that has been worn and enjoyed, evidenced by the wear to the bezel and case. Despite the cosmetic signs of age on the exterior, the dial remains well-preserved. Ideally suited for a collector who appreciates the honest "wabi-sabi" of a tool watch or a piece with a life well-lived. Dimensions The case measures 33 mm in width excluding the crown, a classic size for the era that offers a refined profile on the wrist. The lug design integrates smoothly with the strap, maintaining the sleek silhouette that the Fineness line was known for. Remarks The Orient Fineness Ultramatic is a significant model in the brand's history, representing their technical peak in the late 1960s. Finding one with the Kanji day wheel and the complex 35-jewel movement makes this a worthy addition to any collection focused on Japanese horological history. History Orient Watch Co., formally established in 1950 in Tokyo, has long been considered one of the "Big Three" Japanese watch manufacturers. Throughout the mid-20th century, Orient distinguished itself by focusing on mechanical in-house movements. The Fineness line, introduced in 1967, was a direct response to the "slim watch" trend of the decade, showcasing Orient's ability to manufacture sophisticated, high-jewel automatics that were both elegant and technically robust. / Second Vintage SKU: ORI-OFJ-0001